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Some thoughts on building models of all types and sizes


Some thoughts on building models of all types and sizes

Welcome. If you have not visited Minature Buildings before can I suggest you begin with my Aims and Scope article or at the Home Page. If you have visited before - welcome back. I hope this article is of interest to you.


Brio Points

This article is not about model buildings but this is my site, so I have bent the rules on content a bit!  As you may have read in my Train Table article, I have a collection of wooden railway track and trains for the grandchildren to play with and am working on a layout using scratch-built track - which connects onto regular track.

If you, like me, find it annoying that Brio's standard points do not switch then this may be for you. I imagine they were designed in the early days when push-along trains were the norm. The little guiding hand could easily choose which track the train would choose to run onto. With more modern battery powered trains it is a pain in the proverbial (IMHO).  Generally the train will follow the straight line but sometimes it will (apparently randomly) branch off. I wanted a piece which allowed the point to be set to force the train to go in the desired direction. Yes, I know there are such parts available but I have a lot of the old style unswitched ones.

Before I go any further I need to make clear that my little adaptation is not suitable for unsupervised under 3s/5s 7s etc. It would not pass the Toy Safety regulations in your or my jurisdiction.  But if your set, like mine, only comes out when you are around then it might be of interest.

I have tried scratch-buiding points, with various degrees of success.   Modifying the standard beechwood track is much easier.

The starting point is to cut/chisel/sand away a small section of the track:

The second step is to cut and roughly shape a short length (around 25mm) of 3x3mm timber.  Then drill a small hole in the unshaped end.

Place the new moving rail in the position that allows trains to go straight ahead and drill a small pilot hole in the track. (If you do this with the rail in the branching position it will not move properly.)  Fix it with a short thin nail.  Not too tight, not too loose.  The stick has to be moveable but needs some friction to hold it in the desired places.  Remember please, small parts and tiny nails are not compatible with young children.  With the new part in place it can be filed and sanded to ensure the smoothest curve and no edges on which the trains might catch.

Quick, easy, cheap and effective. I'm rather pleased with it.

This article is not about model buildings but this is my site, so I have bent the rules on content a bit!  As you may have read in my Train Table article, I have a collection of wooden railway track and trains for the grandchildren to play with and am working on a layout using scratch-built track - which connects onto regular track.

If you, like me, find it annoying that Brio's standard points do not switch then this may be for you. I imagine they were designed in the early days when push-along trains were the norm. The little guiding hand could easily choose which track the train would choose to run onto. With more modern battery powered trains it is a pain in the proverbial (IMHO).  Generally the train will follow the straight line but sometimes it will (apparently randomly) branch off. I wanted a piece which allowed the point to be set to force the train to go in the desired direction. Yes, I know there are such parts available but I have a lot of the old style unswitched ones.

Before I go any further I need to make clear that my little adaptation is not suitable for unsupervised under 3s/5s 7s etc. It would not pass the Toy Safety regulations in your or my jurisdiction.  But if your set, like mine, only comes out when you are around then it might be of interest.

I have tried scratch-buiding points, with various degrees of success.   Modifying the standard beechwood track is much easier.

The starting point is to cut/chisel/sand away a small section of the track:


The second step is to cut and roughly shape a short length (around 25mm) of 3x3mm timber.  Then drill a small hole in the unshaped end.


Place the new moving rail in the position that allows trains to go straight ahead and drill a small pilot hole in the track. (If you do this with the rail in the branching position it will not move properly.)  Fix it with a short thin nail.  Not too tight, not too loose.  The stick has to be moveable but needs some friction to hold it in the desired places.  Remember please, small parts and tiny nails are not compatible with young children.  With the new part in place it can be filed and sanded to ensure the smoothest curve and no edges on which the trains might catch.


Quick, easy, cheap and effective. I'm rather pleased with it.


As always, please e-mail Miniature Buildings if you have something to add. Comments, criticisms, extra thoughts, pictures, or even complete articles for inclusion in the Miniature Buildings site are all welcome. Or if you would like to be added to my mailing list to hear when a new article is published.

David, June 2023,